Dandruff in dogs is skin cells shedding faster than the coat can carry them away. Something is pushing that turnover, and the flakes themselves tell you a lot about what.
Small dry white flakes usually point at moisture: dry air, over-bathing, or a diet short on fat. Larger yellowish flakes that stick to the hair point the other direction, at too much sebum rather than too little. Flakes that move are not flakes. Dark specks that smear red on a damp paper towel are flea dirt, not skin. And flaking that arrives with thinning hair in the same spot is the one pattern that skips the home routine and goes straight to a vet visit.
Read the flakes first, then work the causes in order of how fast each one can change.
What Dandruff Actually Is
Skin renews itself constantly. Cells form at the base of the epidermis, move up over roughly three weeks, flatten, die, and shed. On a dog with a comfortable coat that shedding is invisible, because the dead cells come off a few at a time and the coat's own oil keeps them from clumping.
Flaking is that same process running fast, running unevenly, or running without enough oil to keep the pieces small. A few specks on a dark blanket after a nap is normal. A visible dusting along the spine every time your dog shakes is the coat telling you something upstream changed. If you are still at the is-this-even-a-problem stage, start with can dogs get dandruff and come back here once you know what you are looking at.
Sebum, and Why the Amount Matters More Than the Coat
Sebaceous glands sit alongside each hair follicle and secrete sebum, an oily mix of fatty acids, wax esters, and cholesterol. Sebum coats the hair shaft, keeps the outer skin layer flexible, holds water in, and helps keep the microbial population on the skin in balance.
Both directions cause flaking, and they look different.
Too little sebum, and the outer layer dries and cracks into small light flakes that fall away easily. Too much, and the flakes clump with oil into larger yellowish pieces that stay stuck in the coat, often with a smell.
That is the single most useful distinction on this page, and it is the one people skip. Reaching for a moisturizing shampoo when the coat is already producing extra oil makes the coat worse, not better.
Why the Flakes Show Up Along the Back and Tail First
Two reasons, and neither one is about the skin there being different.
The back and the base of the tail are the hardest places for a dog to reach. Grooming redistributes sebum by hand, tongue, or brush, and the spine is the one stretch of a dog's body that gets none of that on its own. On a senior dog, an overweight dog, or a dog with stiff hips, that dead zone gets bigger.
The other reason is density. Guard hair is thickest over the back, so anything shedding into it gets caught and held instead of dropping off. Flakes are landing everywhere. You are only seeing them where the coat holds them.
Read the Flakes: A Pattern Guide
Start here. Look at the coat in good light, run a fine comb through the hair over the shoulders and the base of the tail, and match what you see.
|
What you see |
What it usually points at |
First move |
|---|---|---|
|
Small, dry, white, falls off easily |
Dry air, over-bathing, or a diet short on fat |
Humidifier, stretch the bath interval, check the fat content of the food |
|
Larger, yellowish, sticky, sometimes a smell |
Extra sebum and a shifted skin microbe balance |
Vet visit before any shampoo, since the shampoo choice depends on which one |
|
Flakes that move when you watch them |
Mites, not skin |
Vet, this week. This one transfers to people |
|
Dark specks that smear reddish-brown on damp paper |
Flea dirt |
Flea control on every pet in the house |
|
Flakes plus thinning hair in the same spot |
Something systemic or parasitic |
Vet, skip the home routine |
|
Showed up in the last seven days |
A recent change: new food, new shampoo, new house, new season |
Retrace the last two weeks |
|
Every fall, gone every spring |
Indoor heating and low humidity |
Humidifier, run it before the flaking starts |
Small, Dry, White Flakes That Fall Off When You Brush
This is the common one, and it is the one you have the most control over. It means the outer skin layer is losing water faster than it is holding it.
Three inputs feed that layer: humidity in the air, oil on the surface, and fat in the diet. Check them in that order, because that is also the order of how fast each one moves. Air changes in a day. Surface oil changes in about a week once you stop stripping it. Diet takes four to six weeks, because coat quality tracks the hair growth cycle and not the calendar.
Larger, Yellowish Flakes That Stick to the Hair
Greasy flaking runs the opposite direction. The glands are producing more sebum than the coat can carry, and the excess holds the shed cells together in bigger pieces. There is often a smell, and the coat can feel tacky at the base of the hair rather than at the tips.
Do not reach for a moisturizing shampoo here. The shampoo that helps a dry coat is the wrong one for a greasy coat, and picking wrong costs you weeks. This pattern is worth a vet conversation before you buy anything, because greasy flaking is usually downstream of something else rather than a standalone problem.
Flakes That Move
Watch a patch of white specks for ten or fifteen seconds in bright light. If some of them travel, those are mites, and the coat is doing exactly what the old name for it describes.
The mite is Cheyletiella. It lives on the skin surface, feeds on skin debris, and it transfers to people, where it shows up as an itchy rash on the arms and torso. This is a same-week vet call. It is also one of the few flaking patterns where a home routine actively wastes time.
Dark Specks That Smear Red on a Wet Paper Towel
Comb the specks onto a damp white paper towel and press. Skin flakes stay dark or grey. Flea dirt is digested blood, so it smears reddish-brown.
If it smears red, the flakes are a side issue and fleas are the topic. Every dog and cat in the house needs coverage, not just the one with the visible flaking.
Flakes With Thinning Hair in the Same Spot
Flaking and hair loss showing up together in the same area changes the plan. Skin turnover and hair growth run on shared machinery, so when both slip at once, the cause is usually deeper than the coat surface.
Take a photo of the area with something for scale, note the date, and book the visit. A vet can run a skin scrape, a tape prep, and bloodwork in one appointment and tell you in an afternoon what six weeks of guessing will not.
Flakes That Appeared in the Last Seven Days
Sudden onset is a gift, because it narrows the window. Walk back through the last two weeks and write down every change: a new bag of food, a different shampoo, a groomer visit, a new carpet cleaner, a move, a boarding stay, a new pet in the house, or the day the furnace came on.
One of those is usually it. A seasonal shift in what is blooming outside belongs on the list too, and we covered what a seasonal reaction looks like on the skin. Sudden flaking with no traceable change at all, especially with scratching or a smell, goes on the vet list instead.
Flakes That Come Back Every Fall and Clear Every Spring
The seasonal pattern is the easiest one to solve and the most common one to misread as a food problem.
Forced-air heat drops indoor humidity hard. Skin follows the room. If the flaking starts within a few weeks of the furnace turning on and clears when you open the windows in spring, the room is the cause, and the fix is a humidifier rather than a new diet. Run it before the flaking starts, not after.
Causes You Can Change This Week
Dry Indoor Air
Aim for 40 to 50% relative humidity in the rooms your dog actually sleeps in. A $30 hygrometer tells you where you are, and a humidifier in the bedroom does more than one in the living room, because that is where your dog spends eight uninterrupted hours.
While you are at it, change the furnace filter. It fills with dust, dander, and coat faster than people expect, and most filters are done at three months.
Bathing Too Often, or With the Wrong Shampoo
Sebum takes a few days to rebuild after a bath. Bathing weekly means the coat never gets there.
Monthly is a reasonable default for a dog with no skin concerns, and lukewarm water works better than hot, which strips more oil. Rinse longer than feels necessary. Leftover shampoo residue is its own cause of flaking and it is invisible until the coat dries.
Human shampoo is the other common mistake. Dog skin sits closer to neutral pH than ours does, and human formulas, medicated ones especially, are built for a different acidity. If your dog needs a plain bath between medicated ones, warm water alone is fine.
Brushing That Never Reaches the Skin
Brushing is the highest-return habit on this list and it costs nothing.
Long sweeping strokes in the direction the coat lies, one hand on the brush, and a comb pulled through the bristles after each pass so you are lifting the loose cells out instead of putting them back. Start with a coarser brush, move to a finer one, and finish with a cloth or an old cotton tee over the coat. That last pass pulls surface dust off the hair and pulls sebum down the shaft where it belongs.
Two to three times a week for a short coat, daily for a long or double coat. Four minutes. Spend them on the shoulders, the spine, and the base of the tail, since those are the places your dog cannot reach.
Causes That Take Four to Six Weeks to Change
Everything in this section is real and everything in it is slow. Coat quality tracks the hair growth cycle, so a diet change made today shows up in the coat somewhere between four and six weeks from now. Give it that long before you decide it did not work.
Not Enough Omega-3 and Omega-6 in the Bowl
The outer skin layer is held together by a lipid matrix, and fatty acids from the diet are part of what builds it. When that matrix thins, water leaves faster and the layer flakes.
There is direct evidence of this in dogs. A study in Veterinary Dermatology measured ceramides, one of the main lipid families in that matrix, and found significantly lower amounts in the normal-looking skin of dogs with reactive skin compared with healthy controls. Lower barrier lipids, more water loss, more flaking.
A randomized, double blind, placebo-controlled trial in dogs with poor quality coats tracked what happens when you add n-3 fatty acids back. The supplemented dogs changed on both the clinical scoring and the fatty acid content measured in the hair shafts and on the skin surface itself.
For sources, cold-water fish gives you EPA and DHA directly. Salmon, mackerel, anchovies, and sardines are the usual picks. Plant sources give you ALA, which a dog converts inefficiently, so they are not a substitute. Whole fish avoids the additives some oils carry, though it takes more work to portion, and fish that sit higher on the food chain carry more of what the food chain accumulates.
A Diet With Almost No Moisture in It
Kibble runs around 10% moisture. Fresh and canned food run closer to 70%. A dog eating only dry food is pulling every bit of its water from the bowl, and skin is the organ that shows a shortfall last, after the kidneys and the gut have taken their share.
Adding water, unsalted broth, or a wet topper to dry food is a small change that costs nothing and takes about a week to become a habit. It is not a fix on its own, and it is worth doing anyway.
Zinc, Vitamin A, and Vitamin E
Zinc sits in the middle of skin cell turnover, and a shortfall shows up in the coat before it shows up anywhere else. Some northern breeds, huskies and malamutes especially, absorb dietary zinc differently than other dogs, and vets see a specific pattern of crusting and scaling in them that resolves on supplementation. A review of 41 cases in Veterinary Dermatology is the standard reference on it.
Do not start supplementing zinc on your own. Too much interferes with copper absorption, and the dose depends on the dog. Bring it up with your vet, especially if you have a northern breed.
Vitamins A and E do their work alongside the fatty acids in the same barrier. A complete commercial diet covers both for most dogs. Homemade diets built without a nutritionist are where gaps show up.
A Gut That Is Not Absorbing What You Feed
You can feed the right fat and the right minerals and still come up short if the gut lining is not taking them in.
Roughly 70% of a dog's immune activity sits in the tissue around the gut wall, which is part of why coat quality and digestion track each other so closely. Nutrient uptake happens across that same lining. A dog coming off a course of antibiotics, a dog switched between foods too fast, or a dog with a history of loose stool is a dog whose absorption is worth looking at before you change the food again.
Causes That Need a Vet
Mites, Fleas, and Lice
External parasites drive skin turnover up directly, and the scratching that comes with them drives it up further.
Cheyletiella is the one that produces flakes you can watch move. Fleas produce dark specks rather than white ones, and the wet paper towel test separates the two in about ten seconds. Lice are less common in well-cared-for dogs and show up as pale specks glued to the hair shaft that do not comb out the way flakes do.
All three are a vet visit rather than a shopping trip. Over-the-counter products vary widely in what they actually cover, and a vet can confirm which parasite you are dealing with from a single skin scrape or tape prep before you spend money on the wrong one.
Yeast and Bacteria That Live on Every Dog
Every dog carries yeast and bacteria on its skin all the time. That population is normal and it is part of a functioning barrier.
When the balance shifts, flaking, odor, and scratching tend to arrive together. This is the pattern most often mistaken for plain dry skin, and it is the one where guessing at shampoos costs the most time. A vet can identify what is overgrown from a tape prep in the same visit, which turns a six-week experiment into a targeted plan.
What Your Vet Checks When Flaking Does Not Resolve
If you have run the home routine for six weeks and the coat has not changed, the next step is a workup rather than another product. Here is what a vet is actually looking for, in the words they will use.
Skin scrape and tape prep. Rules parasites and organism overgrowth in or out in one visit.
Thyroid panel. Low thyroid function is one of the more common endocrine findings behind a coat that flakes and thins at the same time, and it is a blood test rather than a guess.
Adrenal function. Another endocrine pathway that shows up in the coat, usually alongside changes in drinking, appetite, or body shape.
Seborrhea. This is the clinical term your vet may use for a coat with ongoing scaling. It comes in two forms. Primary is inherited and involves faulty keratinization, and it is not itchy. Secondary means something else is driving the scaling, and the Merck Veterinary Manual notes that most scaling dogs have the secondary form, with endocrine findings and reactive skin as the usual drivers. Which form matters, because the plan is different.
Nutritional review. If the diet is homemade, or if the dog is a northern breed, the mineral side gets checked directly instead of assumed.
Skin biopsy. Uncommon, and reserved for coats that have not responded to anything else.
None of that is a reason to skip the home routine. It is the reason to put a six-week clock on it and go get answers when the clock runs out.
Breeds That Flake More Than Others
Some coats show flakes more readily, and some dogs genuinely produce more of them.
The breeds that come up most often in the veterinary literature are American Cocker Spaniels, English Springer Spaniels, Basset Hounds, West Highland White Terriers, Dachshunds, Labrador Retrievers, Golden Retrievers, and German Shepherds. Cavalier King Charles Spaniels and Yorkshire Terriers get mentioned in owner-facing sources as well.
Two different things are behind that list. Dense double coats hold shed cells where a single coat would drop them, so the flakes are more visible without being more numerous. And in a handful of these breeds there is a familial pattern of ongoing scaling that a vet will recognize by breed alone.
If your dog is on this list and the coat has always run a little flaky, that is worth mentioning at the next appointment rather than starting from scratch on it.
Your Dog's Skin Has Cannabinoid Receptors In It
This is the part of the picture almost nobody explains, and it is a real one.
The endocannabinoid system is not confined to the brain and the gut. Researchers have mapped CB1 and CB2 receptors directly in canine skin. A study in the American Journal of Veterinary Research found both receptor types in the skin of healthy dogs and dogs with reactive skin, including in the sebaceous glands and the hair follicles, which are precisely the structures that govern flaking. A later paper in Frontiers in Veterinary Science went further and mapped receptor distribution in the keratinocytes themselves, the cells whose turnover you are watching when you look at flakes.
On the human side, a 2020 review in Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology pulls together what is known about cannabinoids and skin, and it is worth reading for its honesty as much as its content. The authors are direct that the preclinical picture is interesting and that confirmed clinical efficacy and the underlying molecular mechanisms have not been fully established.
Here is the honest read for a dog owner. The receptors are there, in the right structures, confirmed in dogs. What the research has not yet done is take a group of flaking dogs, give half of them CBD, and measure the coats. Until someone runs that study, full spectrum CBD belongs in the layered part of a skin plan and not the foundation. Air, brushing, and dietary fat come first because the evidence behind them is stronger and the cost is lower.
If you want the longer version of how the system works across the whole body, we wrote it up on the endocannabinoid system in dogs and cats page.
Supplements That Work on the Cause, Not the Flake
Nothing in this section is a shampoo. Topicals work on what you can see, and everything below works on what is producing it. Both have a place, and they run on different clocks. For the wider category view, including omega sources and what to look for on a label, see our guide to skin and coat supplements for dogs.
Gut Health Colostrum for Large Breed Dogs
Colostrum is best known for its immunoglobulins, and for a flaking coat the more relevant fraction is the growth factors. Colostrum carries IGF-1 and TGF-beta, signaling proteins whose job in the newborn is to drive epithelial tissue to build and turn over correctly. The gut lining is epithelium. So is skin.
That is the connection worth understanding: absorption happens across an epithelial layer, and a layer that is turning over poorly takes up less of the fat and the minerals you are feeding for the coat. Gut Health Colostrum for Large Breed Dogs supports gut lining integrity and a balanced microbiome, and the oligosaccharides in it feed the bacteria already doing that work. It also carries full spectrum hemp extract to support a healthy inflammatory response in the gut.
Start here if your dog has been through antibiotics, has switched foods recently, or has a history of loose stool.
Immunity - Organic Mushrooms for Dogs
The active fraction in functional mushrooms is beta-glucan, a branched polysaccharide locked inside chitin cell walls that a dog cannot break down on its own. Extraction is what releases it. Grind the mushroom and most of the beta-glucan passes straight through.
Once released, beta-glucans interact with receptors on immune cells rather than acting on skin directly. Work published in Molecular Nutrition and Food Research examined how mushroom-derived beta-glucan extracts influence macrophage signaling, and a paper in Annals of Translational Medicine looked at maitake and shiitake extracts on immune cell function.
Immunity - Organic Mushrooms for Dogs is a daily topper built from organic fruiting body and mycelium, grown and extracted in the United States, and it supports healthy immune function. Every batch is third-party tested and the results are posted on our lab results page. If you want the species-by-species detail, that lives on our medicinal mushrooms for dogs and cats page.
Glutathione for Dogs - Maxx Life - 30ct
Glutathione is three amino acids linked together, and it is the antioxidant the body makes and keeps inside its own cells. Skin is a high-turnover tissue sitting at the boundary between the dog and everything in the environment, which makes it one of the places oxidative stress lands hardest.
The delivery problem is the interesting part. Digestion breaks those three amino acids apart, so a plain glutathione capsule mostly arrives as its components. Glutathione for Dogs - Maxx Life uses a liposomal complex to keep the molecule intact through the gut, and pairs it with an immune support complex and a full spectrum hemp blend. It supports the body's natural defense against oxidative stress, which matters most for dogs carrying a heavier environmental load: city dogs, dogs on treated lawns, and older dogs.
More on how it works on our glutathione for dogs page.
CBD Oil for Dogs - Hemp Extract
Given where the receptors sit, full spectrum CBD is a reasonable layer on a skin plan once the basics are running.
CBD Oil for Dogs - Hemp Extract is a full spectrum extract from a single small farm in Colorado, dried indoors, extracted in small batches, and carried in organic coconut MCT oil because cannabinoids are fat-soluble and need a fat to travel in. Full spectrum means the CBDa, the minor cannabinoids, and the terpenes are still in the bottle rather than stripped out. It comes in 500mg and 1000mg, and the strength you want depends on your dog's weight. Our CBD dosing chart by weight does that math for you.
Paw & Skin Balm for Dogs - 125mg
Everything above works from the inside on a four-to-six-week clock. A balm works on one spot, today.
Paw & Skin Balm for Dogs is four organic ingredients, built around whole coconut oil and beeswax, with no petroleum, lanolin, or added fragrance. It sits on the surface and supports the skin barrier where you put it, which makes it right for a dry nose, a rough elbow, or a patch on the tail base, and wrong for flaking spread across the whole coat. It is also safe if your dog licks it, which they will.
Colostrum, organic mushrooms, liposomal glutathione, and a balm for the spots you can point at.
Flaking starts under the coat, not on it
Coconut Oil and Fish Oil
Coconut oil softens flakes on contact and it is genuinely useful as a topical on a small area. Fed by the spoonful it adds calories without adding the omega-3s the barrier is asking for, so it is comfort rather than a nutritional answer. We went through the amounts, the application methods, and the limits in coconut oil for dogs.
Fish oil is the more direct lever for a dry, flaky coat, for the reasons in the fatty acid section above. Buy one with a recent oxidation spec, keep it cold, and give it six weeks.
How Long Before You See a Difference
Setting the clock correctly is most of what keeps people from giving up on something that was working.
Same week: humidifier, brushing routine, stretching the bath interval, adding moisture to the bowl. Air and grooming are the fastest levers on this page.
Two to three weeks: surface oil rebuilding after you stop over-bathing. Digestive changes from colostrum usually show up in this window as well.
Four to six weeks: anything working through the diet. Fatty acids, minerals, and absorption all express through new hair growth, and hair grows on its own schedule.
Six weeks and no change: stop adding products and book the appointment. At that point you are not missing a supplement, you are missing information.
If you would rather see the whole shelf at once, everything above lives in our skin and coat supplements collection.
When to Call Your Vet
Go sooner than six weeks if any of these are true.
The flakes move when you watch them. Flaking arrives with thinning hair in the same spot. There is a smell, or the coat feels greasy at the base of the hair. Your dog is scratching or chewing hard enough to break the skin. The flaking came with a change in drinking, appetite, energy, or body shape. Or anyone in the house has developed an itchy rash on the arms or torso, which is the signal that whatever your dog has is transferring.
A skin scrape, a tape prep, and a blood panel in one visit answer most of these. That is a faster path than another shampoo.
Frequently Asked Questions About Dog Dandruff
Why does my dog have dandruff only on his back and near his tail?
Because that is the one stretch of a dog's body they cannot groom themselves, and because the guard hair is densest there so anything shedding gets held instead of dropping off. Flakes are likely landing across the whole coat. You are seeing them where the coat catches them and where no tongue or paw reaches. Senior dogs, overweight dogs, and dogs with stiff hips show this pattern more strongly, and brushing that specific stretch two or three times a week does more for it than any product.
What is the difference between dry flakes and greasy flakes on a dog?
Dry flakes are small, white or translucent, and they fall away when you brush. They point at too little surface oil, usually from dry air, over-bathing, or a diet short on fat. Greasy flakes are larger, yellowish, and stick to the hair, often with a smell, and they point at too much sebum rather than too little. The distinction decides the shampoo, and picking wrong costs weeks. Greasy flaking is worth a vet conversation before you buy anything, because it is usually downstream of something else.
Why does my dog have dandruff but is not itchy?
Flaking without scratching is common and it is useful information. It makes parasites and environmental reactivity less likely, since both of those usually bring itching with them. Non-itchy flaking points more toward the moisture and nutrition side: dry indoor air, a bathing routine that strips oil faster than it rebuilds, a diet short on fat, or an inherited pattern in a breed that has always run a little flaky. Work the home routine for six weeks. If nothing moves, a non-itchy coat that keeps scaling is specifically worth a vet visit rather than another product.
Can my dog's food be causing dandruff?
It can, in three different ways. The food can be short on omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, which are part of what builds the skin's barrier lipids. It can be complete on paper but poorly absorbed, which is common after antibiotics or a fast food switch. Or it can be a homemade diet with a mineral gap, zinc especially. Food is a slow lever either way. Coat quality tracks the hair growth cycle, so give any diet change four to six weeks before you judge it, and change one thing at a time so you know what worked.
Why does my dog have black flakes instead of white ones?
Comb them onto a damp white paper towel and press. Real skin flakes stay dark or grey. Flea dirt is digested blood, so it smears reddish-brown, and that means the flakes are a side issue and fleas are the actual topic. Every dog and cat in the house needs coverage, not just the one you can see it on. Dark specks that do not smear red can be normal pigmented skin cells on a dark-coated dog, though it is still worth a look if they arrived suddenly.
Does dandruff mean my dog is dehydrated?
Not usually, and it is worth separating two things. True dehydration is a medical situation with other signs alongside it, and it needs a vet. Low dietary moisture is different and much more common. Kibble runs around 10% water while fresh and canned food run closer to 70%, so a dog eating only dry food is pulling all of its water from the bowl. Adding water, unsalted broth, or a wet topper to dry food is a small change that supports skin hydration, and it is not a substitute for the fatty acid side.
Can stress cause dandruff in dogs?
Stress is rarely the whole story and it does show up in the coat, usually as a short-lived dusting of flakes during or right after something disruptive: a move, boarding, a new pet, or a vet visit. That kind of flaking clears on its own once the dog settles. Flaking that starts around a stressful period and then stays put is worth looking at as a nutrition or absorption question instead, since disrupted eating and a fast food change often travel with the stress and outlast it.
How long does it take for dog dandruff to clear up?
It depends entirely on which cause you are working on. Air and grooming changes show up within a week. Surface oil rebuilds over two to three weeks once you stop stripping it. Anything working through the diet takes four to six weeks, because it has to express through new hair growth. Set a six-week clock, work the whole routine rather than one piece of it, and take a photo of the same patch of coat every two weeks in the same light so you can actually see the change instead of guessing.
Further Reading
The research on skin barrier function and cannabinoids in dogs is still developing, and none of it is a guarantee of a result for any individual dog. These are the papers and references behind the claims on this page, if you want to read the primary sources yourself.
- Ceramide levels in the skin of dogs with reactive skin, Veterinary Dermatology, 2009
- A placebo-controlled trial of n-3 fatty acids in dogs with poor quality coats, 2020
- Zinc-responsive dermatosis in dogs: 41 cases and literature review, Veterinary Dermatology, 2001
- Merck Veterinary Manual on scaling and keratinization in animals
- Cannabinoid receptors in the skin of healthy dogs and dogs with reactive skin, American Journal of Veterinary Research, 2012
- Cannabinoid receptor distribution in canine keratinocytes, Frontiers in Veterinary Science, 2022
- Cannabidiol and skin: a 2020 review of what is known and what is not, Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology
- Mushroom beta-glucan extracts and macrophage signaling, Molecular Nutrition and Food Research, 2010
- Maitake and shiitake extracts and immune cell function, Annals of Translational Medicine, 2014
- Shared environment, lifestyle, and microbial exposure in dogs and their owners, Scientific Reports, 2020
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