Crate training works when the crate becomes a place your dog chooses, not a place you put them. Pick a crate your dog can stand up, turn around, and lie down in with a few inches to spare. Introduce it slowly with the door open, feed meals inside, and build up time in small increments. Keep the crate in a room where your family actually spends time, and never use it as punishment. Puppies under six months should not be crated more than three to four hours at a stretch, and adult dogs should not go more than four to five hours during the day. Most dogs take two to four weeks to settle in, and some take longer. Calm routines, good enrichment, and consistent timing do most of the work.
Crate training can be one of the most useful things you teach a new dog. Done well, it supports house training, keeps a curious puppy out of trouble when you cannot watch them, and gives your dog a place of their own to decompress. Done badly, it teaches your dog that a metal box is where good things end.
The difference is almost entirely in the pace and the pairing. Below are eleven crate training tips, a crate size chart, a schedule by age, and honest guidance on the two questions that keep new dog owners up at night: how long is too long, and what do I do when they cry.
What Crate Training Does for Your Dog (and What It Doesn't)
Dogs are not born loving crates. The idea that dogs are den animals gets repeated constantly, and it is only half true. Wild canids use dens for whelping, not for daily living. What is true is that most dogs like a small, enclosed, predictable space with soft edges and a clear view of their people, and a crate can absolutely become that.
What crate training gives you is a management tool. It gives your dog a consistent place to rest, it makes house training faster because most dogs will not soil where they sleep, and it makes vet stays, travel, and recovery from surgery far less stressful because the crate is already familiar.
What crate training does not do is fix a dog who comes apart when left alone. A crate contains behavior. It does not change the underlying stress response, and for some dogs a closed door makes that response worse. If your dog panics, drools, or tries to dig or chew their way out of the crate, that is a behavior problem to work on with a trainer or your veterinarian, not a crate problem to solve with more crate time. Reading your dog matters more than following any schedule, and the signs of stress in dogs are usually visible well before the barking starts.
What Size Crate Does Your Dog Need?
The rule is simple: your dog should be able to stand up without ducking, turn around without contorting, and lie down fully stretched out. Add two to four inches of clearance above the head and past the nose and tail. That is it.
Measure before you buy. Take your dog's length from the tip of the nose to the base of the tail, and their height from the floor to the top of the head while sitting. Add two to four inches to each number. Breed charts are a starting point, but a leggy 50-pound Border Collie and a low, thick 50-pound Bulldog need different crates.
|
Crate length |
Typical adult weight |
Example breeds |
|---|---|---|
|
18 to 22 inches |
Up to 15 lbs |
Chihuahua, Yorkshire Terrier, Toy Poodle |
|
24 inches |
16 to 25 lbs |
Pug, Boston Terrier, Shih Tzu |
|
30 inches |
26 to 40 lbs |
Beagle, Cocker Spaniel, French Bulldog |
|
36 inches |
41 to 70 lbs |
Border Collie, Australian Shepherd, Bulldog |
|
42 inches |
71 to 90 lbs |
Labrador Retriever, Golden Retriever, German Shepherd |
|
48 inches |
91 lbs and up |
Great Dane, Mastiff, Newfoundland |
Bigger is not better. A crate with a lot of extra room lets a puppy pick a corner to potty in and sleep in the other, which is exactly what you are trying to avoid during house training. If you are buying one crate for a puppy who will grow, buy the adult size and use the divider panel, moving it back as your puppy grows.
11 Crate Training Tips for a New Dog or Puppy
1. Choose the Right Crate Type
Once you have the size right, pick the material for how you will actually use it. Plastic airline-style crates are enclosed, hold heat, and travel well. Metal wire crates offer better airflow and visibility, fold flat for storage, and usually come with a divider. Soft-sided crates are light and good for travel with a calm adult dog, and a poor choice for anything with teeth and a plan.
For dogs who chew, go heavy. Thick plastic or welded wire. Also look at door placement. A crate with two doors gives you far more flexibility about where it can go in a room, which matters more than people expect once you are trying to fit it next to a couch.

2. Make the Crate Comfortable
Start with a bed or blanket that fits the crate floor without bunching. Add something that smells like you, an old t-shirt works well, because scent is one of the fastest ways to make a new space feel familiar.
Some dogs settle better with a cover over the crate, which cuts visual traffic and softens light. Leave at least one side and the front open for airflow, and skip the cover entirely if your dog seems more unsettled with it on. Add a safe chew that cannot be swallowed in pieces. If your dog is crated for longer stretches, clip a water bottle to the crate wall rather than using a bowl that will end up on the bed. Clean the bedding regularly. A crate that smells stale is a crate your dog will avoid.
3. Introduce the Crate Gradually
This is the tip that decides whether the other ten matter. A crate introduced too fast reads as confinement, and a dog who has decided the crate is a trap takes far longer to convince the second time.
Start with the door propped open and the crate simply present in the room. Toss treats near it, then just inside, then at the back. Let your dog walk in and out freely for a few days without ever closing the door. Sit nearby and read something. Your calm, uninterested presence tells your dog nothing important is happening here.
When your dog goes in willingly, close the door for ten seconds and open it before they ask. Then thirty seconds. Then a minute. Build in increments small enough that your dog never has a chance to get worried. Praise and reward every time, and if your dog settles on their own, leave quietly and let them be.
4. Feed Meals Inside the Crate
Feeding in the crate does more work than almost any other single step. Meals are the most reliable good thing in your dog's day, and pairing them with the crate builds the association fast and without any pressure from you.
Put the bowl at the back so your dog walks all the way in. In the early days, leave the door open and let them come and go. Once they are eating comfortably, close the door during the meal and open it as soon as they finish. Feeding in the crate also gives slower eaters a private, uninterrupted place to eat, which is useful in multi-dog homes.
5. Build a Positive Environment
Everything that happens near the crate should be neutral or good. Soft bedding, favorite toys, treats that appear from nowhere while your dog is lying inside. Reward calm, not entry. If you only pay for going in, you get a dog who darts in and out. If you pay for lying down quietly, you get a dog who lies down quietly.
A lick mat smeared with something soft and frozen is one of the best crate tools there is, because licking is a self-soothing behavior and it keeps your dog occupied in a lying-down position for ten to twenty minutes.

6. Use the Crate for Nap Times
Crating for naps is the low-pressure way to build duration without ever making a big deal out of it. Puppies in particular need far more sleep than most people expect, and an overtired puppy looks exactly like a wild puppy. Putting them in the crate for a nap after play is not a time-out. It is the thing they needed.
Naps also reinforce the house training loop, since most dogs will not soil where they sleep. If you are unsure how much rest is normal, how many hours dogs sleep a day covers it by age.
7. Never Use the Crate as Punishment
If the crate is where your dog goes when you are frustrated, the crate becomes a place associated with your frustration. That undoes weeks of work in a single afternoon and can make your dog refuse to enter at all.
This is also the broader training principle. The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior's position statement on humane dog training recommends reward-based methods as the first-line approach, and specifically warns that aversive methods can produce fear and avoidance. The crate is a resource. Keep it that way.
If you need to interrupt a behavior, redirect it. If you need space, use a baby gate or a separate room, and keep the crate clean of that association.
8. Keep the Crate in a Social Area
Dogs are social. A crate stuck in the laundry room teaches your dog that going in means the family disappears. Put it in the room where you actually spend time, off to one side, out of the main traffic path but with a line of sight to people.
Many owners end up with two crates, one in the living room for daytime naps and one in the bedroom for nights. That is a good setup, not a failure. It means your dog has a place to rest wherever the family happens to be. And make sure everyone in the house, including kids and guests, leaves the dog alone when they are in the crate. The crate only works as a retreat if it is actually respected as one.
9. Increase Crate Time Gradually
Duration is built in small pieces. Ten seconds, thirty seconds, a minute, five minutes, fifteen. Leave the room for part of it. Come back before your dog gets worried, not after.
The mistake almost everyone makes is jumping from a few minutes of supervised crate time straight to a full workday. Your dog needs to learn the pattern that you leave and you come back, and that pattern is built through many short, boring repetitions. Vary the length so your dog cannot predict a long one. Sometimes you shut the door and open it thirty seconds later, sometimes an hour. Unpredictable duration keeps your dog from counting.
10. Build a Crate Routine
Dogs run on pattern. Attach the crate to things that already happen at the same time every day: after the morning walk, at lunch, at bedtime. A predictable sequence, like potty break, short play, water, crate, is easier for a dog to learn than a crate that appears at random.
Add a cue word. "Crate," "bed," "house," anything consistent. Say it, toss a treat in, and mark the moment they enter. Within a couple of weeks most dogs will go in on the word alone.
Age changes the timeline. A puppy adapts to a new routine faster than an adult dog who has spent years sleeping wherever they liked, so expect an older dog to take longer to accept the routine even if they take to the crate itself easily.
11. Be Patient
Most dogs need two to four weeks to be genuinely comfortable in a crate. Some take a few days. Some take a few months, especially adult rescues with a history you do not know.
Progress is rarely a straight line. A dog who was fine for two hours on Tuesday may whine at twenty minutes on Thursday because a garbage truck went by. Back up a step, rebuild, move forward. The dogs who end up loving their crates are almost always the ones whose owners went slower than they thought they needed to.

Crate Training Schedule by Age
A young puppy's bladder is the limiting factor, not their tolerance for the crate. The common rule of thumb is one hour per month of age, plus one, up to a maximum. Use this as a starting frame and adjust to your own dog.
|
Age |
Max daytime stretch |
Overnight |
Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
|
8 to 10 weeks |
30 to 60 minutes |
Expect 1 to 2 potty breaks |
Crate beside your bed so you hear them wake |
|
11 to 14 weeks |
1 to 3 hours |
Usually 1 potty break |
Keep the last meal well before bedtime |
|
15 to 16 weeks |
3 to 4 hours |
Many puppies sleep through |
Watch for the first dry night |
|
17 weeks to 6 months |
3 to 4 hours |
Through the night |
Build daytime duration in small steps |
|
6 months and up |
4 to 5 hours |
Through the night |
Pair long stretches with real exercise first |
|
Adult dog |
4 to 5 hours |
Through the night |
Midday break if you are gone a full workday |
Humane World for Animals puts the same ceilings in writing: puppies under six months should not be crated more than three or four hours at a time, and adult dogs should not be left in a crate more than four to five hours during the day.
How Long Can a Dog Stay in a Crate?
For an adult dog, four to five hours during the day is the working maximum. Overnight is different, because your dog is asleep and their body is doing much less, so eight hours of nighttime crating is normal and fine.
If your workday is longer than five hours, which most are, you need a midday break. A dog walker, a neighbor, a lunchtime trip home, or a doggy daycare day or two a week. The alternative most people land on eventually is graduating the dog to a crate-free space: a puppy-proofed room or an exercise pen with the crate inside it, door open.
The physical limits are not the whole story. A dog crated for long stretches with nothing to do arrives at the other end with a full tank of unspent energy, and that energy comes out as chewing, barking, or pacing. Crate time needs to be balanced with real exercise and mental stimulation. A tired dog settles. A bored dog complains.
What to Do When Your Dog Cries or Barks in the Crate at Night
Almost every new puppy cries in the crate the first few nights. It is not manipulation and it is not a training failure. They have just left everything they have ever known, and eight weeks ago they were sleeping in a pile of siblings.
Work through it in this order.
Rule out a real need first. Young puppies genuinely cannot hold it overnight. If your puppy has been quiet for hours and then starts crying at 2am, take them out on a leash, no talking, no play, straight back to the crate. A silent, boring potty trip does not teach your puppy that crying gets them a party.
Move the crate next to your bed. This is the single biggest fix and the one people resist most. Your puppy is not crying about the crate, they are crying about being alone. Sleeping within arm's reach usually cuts night crying dramatically in the first week. You can move the crate out of the bedroom by inches over the following weeks once they have settled.

Do not reward the peak. If you open the door in the middle of a full-volume protest, you have just taught your dog what volume it takes. Wait for a pause, even a two-second one, and open on the quiet. If crying escalates rather than fades over several nights, that is a signal to back the process up rather than push through it.
Set the night up better. Last meal a few hours before bed, potty break right before, real physical and mental exercise in the evening, a soft bed, and a covered crate in a dark, quiet room. Some dogs settle faster with a low sound source, a fan or soft music, because it masks the household noises that keep them alert.
Give it a week and a half. Most puppies are through the worst of it in seven to ten nights. If you are past three weeks with no improvement, or your dog is panicking rather than protesting, talk to a trainer.
If nighttime settling is the persistent problem rather than the crate itself, natural supplements to help dogs sleep walks through the options in more detail.
Until What Age Should a Dog Sleep in a Crate?
There is no age at which a dog has to stop. Plenty of adult dogs sleep in an open crate for life because they like it, and that is a completely fine outcome.
The practical answer for most owners is that the crate stops being a management necessity somewhere between one and two years old, once the dog is reliably house trained, past the destructive adolescent chewing stage, and calm enough to be trusted loose overnight. Small breeds and mellow dogs often get there earlier. Large-breed adolescents who are still rearranging the furniture at fourteen months get there later.
Test it in stages. Start with the crate door left open at night. Then a closed bedroom door with the crate open inside. Then a room. If you wake up to a shredded rug, you have your answer and you go back a step without treating it as a setback. Many owners land on a permanent middle ground: the crate stays in the corner with the door open and the bed inside, and the dog uses it whenever they want quiet.
Crate Training an Adult or Rescue Dog
An adult dog is not a big puppy. They come with a history, and you usually do not know what it is. Some rescues have never seen a crate. Some have seen far too much of one.
Go slower than you would with a puppy and drop your expectations for the first two weeks. Feed every meal in the crate with the door open and do nothing else. Do not close the door until your dog is walking in on their own without hesitation, and when you do, sit in the room. An adult dog who has learned that closed doors mean abandonment needs to see you stay put.
Watch for the difference between an unhappy dog and an overwhelmed one. Whining, pawing, and pacing are protest. Heavy panting, drooling, frantic digging at the crate floor, and attempts to bite through the bars are not, and pushing through those will make things worse. That is the point to bring in a certified trainer or your veterinarian.
Adult dogs also arrive with more life happening at once, a new home, new people, new noises, new schedule. The crate is one variable among many, and it usually goes better once the rest of the household has settled into a rhythm.
Calming Support During Crate Training
Crate training is a repetition problem. You are asking your dog to be calm in the same place, at roughly the same times, day after day, until calm becomes the default. Anything that helps your dog settle a little faster during that window compounds, because every calm rep makes the next one easier.
Full spectrum CBD supports the endocannabinoid system, the signaling network that helps the body hold itself in balance, including how it responds to stress. That is a support role, not a sedative one, and it belongs alongside good pacing and reward-based training rather than in place of them. A dog who is comfortable in the crate does not need it. A dog who is on the edge of settling often benefits from the margin.
The research is developing rather than settled, and none of it is a guarantee for any individual dog. A 2023 study in Frontiers in Veterinary Science found that dogs given a single dose of CBD before a separation test whined less and scored lower on stressed behavior measures than dogs given a placebo, and a follow-up study on repeated car travel found that daily dosing produced a more consistent effect than a single dose. That second finding matters here, because crate training is exactly the kind of repeated, scheduled event those researchers were measuring.
What Earth Buddy's Calming Study Found
Earth Buddy ran the first real-world consumer study testing multiple full spectrum CBD formats for daily calming support in dogs, in partnership with MoreBetter and the Veterinary Cannabis Society. Over 26 days with 49 pets, 92% of pet parents reported their dog coped better with stress by Day 25, up from 62% at the start, and the group showed a statistically significant 37% improvement in stress scores.
The format pattern is the useful part for crate training. Calming Chews for Dogs had the fastest day-one response, with roughly 89% of pet parents reporting calmer behavior the first day they used them. CBD Oil for Dogs and Quick Calm built more gradually over two to three weeks. Day-one response here means what pet parents observed in their dogs' behavior, not a pharmacological onset measurement.
You can read the full methodology and results on the Calming Study page.
Which Format Fits Crate Training
Calming Chews for Dogs - Beef & Pumpkin are the natural fit, because crate training already runs on food rewards. The chew you hand over at the crate door is doing two jobs at once: it is the reward that builds the positive association, and it is the calming support. Each chew carries 10mg of full spectrum CBD in a grain-free, limited-ingredient recipe with real beef first, so it works as a training treat rather than something extra you have to talk your dog into.
CBD Oil for Dogs - Hemp Extract is the daily foundation for a dog going through several weeks of crate work. Start at 0.25ml per 20 lbs and give it with food, which keeps it in the system longer. Consistency is what the research points to, so a daily routine beats dosing only on hard days.
Quick Calm 250mg for Dogs is the easiest format to portion for a small or squirmy dog, since a pump is simpler to land than a dropper on a wriggling twelve-week-old. Spray it onto a lick mat or over a meal and it goes down without a second handling event.
Sleep Support Hemp Extract for Dogs pairs CBN with CBD and is worth considering for an adult dog whose crate problem is specifically the overnight stretch rather than the crate itself.
Start low, go slow, and give any format time to show you what it does. The dosing chart by weight has the full breakdown, and how soon CBD works on dogs covers timing. You can compare all of the calming formats in the Dog Stress & Calming collection, or find Earth Buddy at your local independent pet retailer.
Calming Chews for Dogs double as the reward you are already handing over at the crate door.
Calm crate reps, one calming treat at a time
When to Call a Trainer or Your Veterinarian
Most crate training goes fine with patience. Some does not, and knowing the difference saves weeks.
Talk to a certified trainer or your veterinarian if your dog is drooling heavily, panting hard, or soaking the bedding while crated, is injuring their paws, nose, or teeth trying to get out, will not eat or drink anywhere near the crate after two weeks of gradual work, is house trained everywhere except the crate, or is getting worse over time rather than better despite a slow, consistent approach.
These are signs of a stress response that a crate cannot fix and may make worse. A veterinary behaviorist or a certified professional dog trainer who uses reward-based methods can put together a plan that fits your specific dog, and your vet can rule out anything physical that might be driving it.
Frequently Asked Questions About Crate Training
How long does crate training take?
Most dogs are comfortable in a crate within two to four weeks of consistent, gradual work. Puppies often adjust faster than adult dogs because they have fewer established habits. Rescues with an unknown history can take two to three months. The pace depends far more on how gradually you build duration than on the dog's age.
Should I ignore my puppy crying in the crate at night?
Not entirely. Rule out a real need first, because puppies under about four months genuinely cannot hold it all night. Take them out on a leash with no talking or play, then straight back to the crate. Once needs are met, wait for a pause in the crying before opening the door, so you are rewarding quiet rather than volume. Moving the crate beside your bed usually helps more than anything else.
Where should a dog crate go at night?
Next to your bed, at least at first. A new puppy or dog cries mostly about being alone, not about the crate, and sleeping within arm's reach settles most dogs much faster. Once they are consistently quiet through the night, you can move the crate a few feet at a time toward wherever you want it to live permanently.
Until what age should a dog sleep in a crate?
There is no required stopping point. Most owners transition out somewhere between one and two years old, once the dog is reliably house trained and past adolescent chewing. Test it gradually: crate door open, then a closed bedroom with the crate open, then a room. Many dogs keep using an open crate for life because they like the space.
Can you crate train an older dog?
Yes. Adult and senior dogs crate train successfully all the time. Go slower than you would with a puppy, feed every meal inside with the door open for at least a week, and stay in the room the first several times you close the door. An older dog with an unknown history needs to be convinced that closing a door does not mean being left.
Should I cover my dog's crate?
It depends on the dog. A cover cuts visual stimulation and softens light, which helps many dogs settle, especially at night. Leave the front and at least one side open for airflow. If your dog seems more alert or unsettled with the cover on, take it off. There is no rule here beyond watching your own dog.
Is it okay to crate a dog while I'm at work?
For up to four to five hours, yes, for an adult dog. Longer than that needs a midday break from a walker, a neighbor, or a trip home. Puppies under six months should not go more than three to four hours. If your workday is consistently eight hours or more, plan on a crate-free setup such as a puppy-proofed room or an exercise pen with the crate open inside it.
Can CBD help with crate training?
Full spectrum CBD supports the endocannabinoid system, which plays a role in how the body manages stress, and many pet parents use it alongside crate training rather than instead of it. In Earth Buddy's 2022 Calming Study, 92% of pet parents reported their dog coped better with stress by Day 25 of consistent use. It is support for the process, not a substitute for gradual introduction and reward-based training. Talk to your veterinarian before starting anything new, especially if your dog is on other medication.
Further Reading
- How to crate train your dog or puppy, Humane World for Animals
- AVSAB Position Statement on Humane Dog Training, American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior, 2021
- A single dose of cannabidiol positively influences measures of stress in dogs during separation and car travel, Hunt et al., Frontiers in Veterinary Science, 2023
- Daily dosing of cannabidiol demonstrates a positive effect on measures of stress in dogs during repeated exposure to car travel, Journal of Animal Science, 2024
- CBD: what you need to know about its uses and efficacy, Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine
Research on cannabinoids in dogs is developing, and results in these studies are not a guarantee of results in any individual dog. Talk to your veterinarian before adding any supplement, particularly if your dog takes other medication.

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